(Camerun, decembrie 2011)
Demult, tare demult, pe cand pe platourile muntilor Mandara erau stapane turme mari de capre salbatice, pe cand foarte putini oameni isi facusera salasul acolo, vanatorul Sîkî a pornit in cautare de carne frageda, din vaile care acum apartin Nigeriei, urcand inspre turnurile de stanca ramase de la vechii vulcani.
Isi facuse salas intr-o grota de pe muntele Rhum, si facea prapad printre caprele inca neobisnuite cu acea vietate cu doua picioare care sloboade inspre ele sageti cu varfuri mortale.
Muntele Rhum
Seful unui sat din vale, intrigat de focul care se vedea seara de seara arzand in grota de pe munte, si-a trimis cativa supusi sa vada ce se intampla, cine e strainul care s-a aciuat pe inaltimi. Iar cand oamenii au ajuns, Sîkî i-a intampinat cu carne proaspat prajita si le-a spus:
– Fratilor, ia vedeti ce loc bun e aici ! Animale din belsug, si nimeni nu ne supara. Aici suntem liberi, sa ne asezam si sa vanam, sa cultivam pamantul si sa mancam fructele baobabilor din jur. Nu va mai intoarceti in satul in care sunteti doar un pic mai mult decat sclavi. Ramaneti aici cu mine, sa facem impreuna un sat nou !
Si asa s-a nascut satul Rhumsiki, la poalele muntelui Rhum, unde din timp in timp, in amintirea stramosului lor si a acelor vremuri, satenii mai urca sa indeplineasca ritualuri.
Varfurile din plan indepartat formeaza granita cu Nigeria
Muntii Mandara, in nord-vestul Camerunului, au pastrat de-a lungul secolelor traditiile multor populatii, unite de statutul de refugiat si numite generic Kirdi, “pagan”, de catre cei care s-au instapanit in campie in secolele 17-18, Fulanii veniti din nord, purtatori ai Islamului, inflacarati de Jihad. Din calea lor, triburile locale care au refuzat asimilarea s-au retras in munti, fortificand zonele stancoase si rezistand – muntele Rhum a fost o astfel de fortareata, cu palisade si gramezi de pietre pregatite pentru a fi rostogolote inspre calaretii care veneau in raiduri la vanatoare de sclavi. Kirdi au rezistat in munti, pastrandu-si religiile, limba si obiceiurile pana acum. Sau, cel putin, pana de curand…
Tribul Kapsiki, care stapaneste zona presarata de piscuri de bazalt in care se afla si Rhumsiki, numara 24 de sate. 12 in Camerun si 12 in Nigeria. Granita e la doar 3 kilometri de Rhumsiki. O granita stiuta, marcata de piscuri si vai, dar nu o bariera – oamenii locului o trec liber, pentru a vizita rudele si prietenii de dincolo, asa cum au facut-o intotdeauna.
Satul, vazut de pe muntele Rhum
Baobab cu fructe, la asfintit
Baobabii sunt foarte folositori - fructele, frunzele, coaja si desigur lemnul sunt utilizate de sateni
Colindand dealurile din jurul satului, in cautare de noi perspective asupra peisajului fantastic, gasesti in iarba, departe de case, ciudate alcatuiri din pietre, mormane frumos aranjate incununate de cate un vas de pamant ars, sau de cioburile ramase dupa trecerea timpului. Acestea sunt morminte. Din timpul vietii omul Kapsiki isi alege un loc. Poate fi aproape de casa, sau langa campul lui, dar de cele mai multe ori e pe o coasta de deal, de unde spiritul lui va privi mereu satul si viata urmasilor lui, si in fundal va avea uriasii de piatra desenati falnic pe cerul senin. Oamenii nu sunt ingropati, ci legati ghemuiti pe pamant, apoi acoperiti cu pamant si pietre, intr-o alcatuire atenta. Aranjamentul pietrelor din varf si felul oalei de lut de deasupra e un limbaj, care are diverse semnificatii. Cel care trece pe langa mormant afla, citind aceste semne, daca acolo zace un barbat sau o femeie, si cati copii a avut raposatul.
Mormant traditional Kapsiki
50% dintre kapsiki urmeaza inca religia traditionala si traieste in comuniune cu spiritele care sunt prezente peste tot, care insufla muntii, arborii si obiectele si care influenteaza mersul lucrurilor. Ele vorbesc prin intermediul vrajitorului satului, care are leacuri pentru probleme si care stie citi viitorul in urmele lasate pe nisip de crabul sfant. Acest crab consacrat e ales ritualic dintr-un parau sacru, si schimbat la fiecare doua saptamani, pentru a-si pastra vioiciunea si… inspiratia.
Din intregul populatiei, 35% au fost convinsi de misionari sa devina crestini, iar 15% au imbratisat Islamul, dupa ce doua sute de ani i-au tinut piept cu inversunare si cu multe sacrificii. Religia traditionala este inca vie, dar treptat ponderea ei scade.
Rhumsiki e un loc special in Camerun. In cele 3 saptamani petrecute in tara, tot timpul aveam impresia ca suntem singurii turisti. Foarte rar mai intalneam cate un alb, implicat in vreun ONG local. Dar la Rhumsiki e altfel – aici am intalnit turisti. Aici, in indepartatul nord, la capatul unui drum lung si greu, se aduna toti cei care viziteaza tara, pentru ca toti stiu – Rhumsiki nu trebuie ratat. Peisajul e de vina, in primul rand. Dar chiar daca traditiile ancestrale se pastreaza aici, noi obisnuinte, specifice vremurilor noastre, sunt pe punctul de a deveni “traditie” a locului.
Caracterul turistic al satului a determinat o mutatie mentala in randul multor locanici, de la copiii de-o schioapa pana la batrani. Oportunismul legat de albul care sigur are bani face ca in orice loc din sat sau din jurul satului, chiar sus pe dealuri, sa fii mereu urmat si inconjurat de copii care cer, intind mana si chiar daca sunt refuzati, repetat, continua sa urmeze strainul si sa astepte, cu ochii mari, in care citesti simultan rugaminte, iscodire si revendicare.
..un cadou, monsieur ?
Cei mai mari s-au organizat pe langa locurile de cazare pentru a-si oferi serviciile de ghid, iar cei mai batrani, care odinioara chiar realizau oalele de lut si tesaturile traditionale, isi etaleaza mestesugul de parada la intersectii si te imbie cu suveniruri.
Decorand lutul moale
Poate nu voi sti niciodata intregul adevar cu privire la transportul public din Rhumsiki. Acest aspect e ilustrativ pentru ceea ce am receptat ca o adevarata conspiratie generala a tuturor locuitorilor. Poti ajunge sau nu cu microbuzul in Rhumsiki ? De la Mokolo, ultimul oras, sunt 55 de kilometri de drum groaznic. O masina normala se rupe in bucati. Si toata lumea, de la iesirea din Mokolo si peste tot in Rhumsiki, iti spune cu toata convingerea ca nu se poate gasi loc in autobuz decat in situatii exceptionale, poate, in ziua de targ, o data pe saptamana. Altfel, trebuie sa iti batucesti sezutul timp de 2 ore in spatele unei motociclete, pentru o gramada de bani. De altfel, motociclete are toata lumea si oricine e dornic sa te transporte. Pretul e standard, cunoscut de toti. Unii, pe soptite, ne-au spus ca ar exista microbuz. Si apoi l-am vazut si noi, o masina a companiei “Mokolo Express”, urcand in sat. I-am sarit in fata – cand va intoarceti ? Mai e loc ? Si spre mirarea mea soferul s-a fastacit, si-a dat ochii peste cap si mi-a spus ca “nu stie”. Ca “nu crede ca mai e loc”. Ca masina e deja “rezervata de oameni cu multe bagaje”. Ma intorc spre un satean care trecea pe-acolo. Se grabeste sa-mi confirme: Da da, asa e, nu exista autobuz in care sa poata urca turistul. Singura optiune e motocicleta. La pretul standard. Are el un var, daca vreau il suna imediat si putem pleca in 3 minute. Se jura ca asa e. Ei, Kapsiki, nu mint niciodata !
Asa o fi, n-am avut timp sa facem o investigatie exhaustiva si am luat moto si la intors, pentru o cursa de 2 ore care ne-a hurducat si a lipit de noi un strat gros de praf fin si rosu. Au ramas in spate piscurile lasate mostenire de maretii vulcani si urmasii lui Sîkî, care-si cauta calea intre spiritele intrupate in baobabi si noile sanse pentru capatuire aduse de curiozitatea oamenilor albi.
451601 793684Gems form the internet […]very few websites that happen to be detailed below, from our point of view are undoubtedly properly worth checking out[…] 731995
791613 201221Thank you for the sensible critique. Me and my neighbor were just preparing to do some research on this. We got a grab a book from our area library but I think I learned far more clear from this post. Im very glad to see such excellent information being shared freely out there. 347139
551786 780821replica watches are amazing reproduction of original authentic swiss luxury time pieces. 174523
633918 125326Giving you the top News is extremely a lot imptortant to us. 430347
699080 842503I believe this web site has some truly excellent info for everyone : D. 32906
110979 330961Aw, i thought this was an very good post. In concept I would like to invest writing in this way moreover – taking time and actual effort to manufacture a very very good article but exactly what do I say I procrastinate alot and no means apparently go completed. 738520
394086 124942Xanax (Alprazolam) is used to treat anxiety disorders and panic attacks. Alprazolam is in a class of 539568
699073 822328Taylor Lautner By the way you might want to look at this cool website I found 587064
668014 538459Hmm is anyone else experiencing issues with the images on this weblog loading? Im trying to locate out if its a issue on my finish or if its the blog. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated. 948085
805736 896259Wonderful site you got here! Please keep updating, I will def read far more. Itll be in my bookmarks so greater update! 136759
674994 54302Hello. I wanted to ask 1 thingis this a wordpress internet internet site as we are preparing to be shifting more than to WP. Furthermore did you make this template yourself? Thanks. 963925
566090 208432youve gotten an crucial weblog appropriate here! would you wish to make some invite posts on my weblog? 800688
330966 67691Awesome weblog, Im going to spend far more time researching this topic 487096
382590 922171This web page may possibly be a walk-through like the data you wanted concerning this and didnt know who need to have to. Glimpse here, and you will definitely discover it. 562236
415855 554156This internet site is normally a walk-through its the data you wished concerning this and didnt know who ought to. Glimpse here, and youll surely discover it. 585962
910868 746197Hey! Do you use Twitter? Id like to follow you if that would be ok. Im definitely enjoying your weblog and look forward to new updates. 752016
247970 694980cool thanks for reis posting! btw are there feeds to your weblog? Id enjoy to add them to my reader 170235
743321 859523Greetings! Quick question thats completely off subject. Do you know how to make your website mobile friendly? My site looks weird when browsing from my apple iphone. Im trying to find a template or plugin that may be able to correct this issue. In case you have any suggestions, please share. With thanks! 59421
554204 165191Some genuinely excellent info , Gladiola I observed this. 351202
162084 267193Hello there! I could have sworn Ive been to this blog before but right after checking by way of some of the post I realized its new to me. Anyhow, Im surely glad I found it and Ill be bookmarking and checking back regularly! 808519
537740 719051I like what you guys are up also. Such intelligent work and reporting! Keep up the superb works guys Ive incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think itll improve the value of my web site . 304194
[center][size=large][b] Secrex.io — безопасный обменник крипты [/b][/size][/center]
Обменник SecretExchange предоставляет приватный обмен цифровых активов без KYC.
[b]Основные направления:[/b]
[list]
[*][b]Обмен крипто:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]BTC, ETH, USDT, Dogecoin[/url] и многое другое
[*][b]Вывод крипты:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Рубли на карту (Тинькофф, Сбербанк)[/url] быстро и безопасно
[*][b]Купить крипту:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Купить крипту за рубли[/url] через интернет
[/list]
[b]Популярные операции:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Продать криптовалюту[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Продать крипту[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен USDT на рубли[/url] / [url=https://secrex.io/ru]USDT Тинькофф[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник биткоин[/url] / [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Биткоин на Сбербанк[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменять криптовалюту[/url] / [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменять крипту[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Вывод крипты[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипта обмен[/url]
[b]Основные плюсы:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Моментальный обмен[/url] — быстрые транзакции
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Без KYC[/url] — полная анонимность
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник[/url] — доступ 24/7
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник с карты на карту[/url] — простота использования
[b]Дополнительные возможности:[/b]
[list]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Догикоин в рублях[/url] — выгодный курс Dogecoin
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник BTC[/url] — работаем с Bitcoin
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалют в Москве[/url] — для жителей столицы
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалюты СПб[/url] — в Санкт-Петербурге
[/list]
[b]Руководства:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru/knowledgebase/blog/read/1472]Перевод крипты[/url] — гайд
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru/knowledgebase/blog/read/3609]Как обменять криптовалюту[/url] — инструкция
[quote] [b]Преимущества нашего сервиса[/b]
✓ [i]Полная анонимность[/i] — не требуем KYC/AML
✓ [i]Мгновенный обмен[/i] — оперативность
✓ [i]Выгодный курс[/i] — без скрытых комиссий
✓ [i]Работа 24/7[/i] — без выходных
✓ [i]Защита от блокировок[/i] — надежный сервис[/quote]
[b]Как еще нас называют:[/b]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Криптообменник[/url]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалют[/url],
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипто обменник[/url]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипта обменник[/url],
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник крипты[/url],
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник криптовалют[/url]
[b]Частые операции:[/b]
[list]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен криптовалюты[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен крипто[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник биткоин[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник BTC[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен USDT[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен BTC[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Тинькофф обмен[/url]/ [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен биткоина на рубли[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Как обменять биткоин[/url] — инструкция на сайте
[/list]
[b]Для новичков:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Лучшие обменники криптовалюты[/url] — рейтинг
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник[/url] — как работать
[center][size=medium][b]Приступить к обмену:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru] SecretExchange — быстрый и анонимный обмен[/url][/size][/center]
[center][size=large][b] Secrex.io — конфиденциальный обменник крипты [/b][/size][/center]
Платформа SecretExchange предоставляет безопасный обмен криптовалюты без KYC.
[b]Основные направления:[/b]
[list]
[*][b]Обмен крипто:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]BTC, ETH, USDT, Dogecoin[/url] и другие
[*][b]Вывод на фиат:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Рубли на карту (Тинькофф, Сбербанк)[/url] моментально и надежно
[*][b]Покупка крипты:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Купить крипту за рубли[/url] онлайн
[/list]
[b]Востребованные услуги:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Продать криптовалюту[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Продать крипту[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен USDT на рубли[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]USDT Тинькофф[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник биткоин[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Биткоин на Сбербанк[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменять криптовалюту[/url] или [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменять крипту[/url]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Вывод крипты[/url] / [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипта обмен[/url]
[b]Главные преимущества:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Моментальный обмен[/url] — быстрые транзакции
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Без KYC[/url] — полная анонимность
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник[/url] — без выходных
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник с карты на карту[/url] — простота использования
[b]Дополнительные возможности:[/b]
[list]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Догикоин в рублях[/url] — выгодный курс Dogecoin
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен BTC[/url] — обмен Bitcoin
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалют в Москве[/url] — информация о сервисе
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалюты СПб[/url] — для петербуржцев
[/list]
[b]Полезные статьи:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru/knowledgebase/blog/read/1472]Перевод крипты[/url] — гайд
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru/knowledgebase/blog/read/3609]Как обменять криптовалюту[/url] — пошагово
[quote] [b]Почему именно мы?[/b]
✓ [i]Полная анонимность[/i] — без документов
✓ [i]Мгновенный обмен[/i] — быстрые транзакции
✓ [i]Прозрачные цены[/i] — выгодные условия
✓ [i]Круглосуточная работа[/i] — без выходных
✓ [i]Защита от блокировок[/i] — надежный сервис[/quote]
[b]Другие названия сервиса:[/b]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Криптообменник[/url]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник криптовалют[/url],
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипто обменник[/url]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Крипта обменник[/url],
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник крипты[/url]
[url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник криптовалют[/url]
[b]Частые запросы:[/b]
[list]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен криптовалюты[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен крипто[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник биткоин[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обменник BTC[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен USDT[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен BTC[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Тинькофф обмен[/url] [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Обмен биткоина на рубли[/url]
[*][url=https://secrex.io/ru]Как обменять биткоин[/url] — инструкция на сайте
[/list]
[b]Для новичков:[/b]
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Лучшие обменники криптовалюты[/url] — обзор
• [url=https://secrex.io/ru]Онлайн обменник[/url] — как работать
[center][size=medium][b]Приступить к обмену:[/b] [url=https://secrex.io/ru] SecretExchange — быстрый и анонимный обмен[/url][/size][/center]
324026 787879I surely didnt know that. Learnt one thing new these days! Thanks for that. 534337
211247 928795Hello, Neat post. There is a problem along with your web site in internet explorer, could test thisK IE nonetheless is the marketplace leader and a large portion of folks will leave out your superb writing due to this dilemma. 258541
52853 650944Normally I try and get my mix of Vitamin E from pills. Although Id really like to through a amazing meal program it can be rather hard to at times. 389408
167877 281360Id must verify with you here. Which isnt something I often do! I enjoy studying a publish that can make folks believe. Also, thanks for permitting me to remark! 337478
262020 136274This web web site is often a walk-through for all of the knowledge you wanted concerning this and didnt know who should. Glimpse here, and you will totally discover it. 479977
43466 200121Satisfying posting. It would appear that lots of the stages are depending upon the originality aspect. Its a funny thing about life in case you refuse to accept anything but the best, you really often get it. by W. Somerset Maugham.. 814998