(Acest articol este partea a 3-a dintr-o poveste care incepe AICI )
Intoarcerea noastra la auberge a avut si un aspect pozitiv – Benjamin si-a regasit perna marocana, pe care o uitase in camera cand am plecat grabiti spre gara. Venind prin Maroc, si-a luat si el din Fes o perna-taburet din piele de camila, frumos lucrata, cu cusaturi si intarsii. Alaturi de celebrii babouches (slapii din piele colorata), pernele din piele de camila sau din oaie sunt cele mai cunoscute produse ale cooperativelor tabacarilor din Maroc, sunt foarte decorative dar au si un rol practic – umplute cu carpe sau paie, folosesc drept tabureti comozi. Pernele astea, chiar fara umplutura, sunt destul de grele si voluminoase, iar Ben uitase sa o mai lege pe a sa deasupra rucsacului, cum facuse pana acum. Pentru ilustrare, am facut acum o poza pernei din piele de camila pe care am adus-o eu din Fes acum cativa ani.
Te intrebi ce are de-a face divagatia cu perna asta cu povestea cu trenul ? Are, dar nu mai vreau sa repet sfatul cu rabdarea 🙂
Am petrecut noaptea la auberge si dimineata tolaniti in cortul berber din curte, pe perne si covoare, citind si scriind, asteptand sa treaca timpul. Ei, de fapt, de cu seara ne-am inteles cu un sofer sa vina sa ne ia dimineata la 9, sa ne duca pana la Cap Blanc, cel mai sudic punct al peninsulei Nouadhibou, unde am auzit ca peisajul e spectaculos, unde sunt foci si colonii de pasari. Ne-am inteles si la pret, 5000 OUG era aproape 20 de Euro, bani buni aici. Asa ca am fost foarte mirati cand omul nu a venit de dimineata, dand cu piciorul la un castig frumos si dovedindu-ne inca o data cat de relativa e punctualitatea aici. Eram abia la inceputul calatoriei, mai aveam mult de mers pana la capat si o zi pierduta aici imi dadea peste cap planurile, dar am lasat grijile deoparte, descoperind cat de placut e sa nu faci nimic, sa trandavesti in cort citind, sa privesti cum ingrijitorul pensiunii matura iar si iar curtea, cu gesturi lente, netezind nisipul adanc, doar ca sa o ia de la capat de fiecare data cand cineva lasa un sir de pasi de-a curmezisul suprafetei batute de un soare molcom. Nu am putut uita niciodata in Mauritania ca suntem in desert. In mijlocul orasului, cladirile se ridica direct din nisipul fin si adanc, in care ti se infunda picioarele, la fel si in curtea aubergeului. In truda fara rost a ingrijitorului, care netezea mereu nisipul, era ceva ritualic, care imi amintea de gradinile japoneze zen, cele cu pietre si nisip greblat.
La 1 pornim din nou spre gara. De data asta, femeile cu tarabe erau deja acolo si oamenii incepeau sa vina si ei, cu bagajele lor. Vanzatoarele ne-au zambit, ne-au dat bonjour si ne-au intrebat ce am facut ieri. Pe unii din cei care stau pe bancile de ciment ii recunoastem de ieri. Ne zambim si ne salutam. A durat o zi ca sa fim acceptati. Am asteptat alaturi de ei, am fost impreuna inselati de trenul care n-a oprit, am fost nevoiti sa acceptam impreuna realitatea.
O garnitura de tren e oprita aproape de gara, asa ca fac o plimbare si niste poze, alaturi de Mokthar, un baiat de 10 ani care vorbeste binisor franceza – o invata la scoala. E indraznet si curios. Tatal lui lucreaza la Zouerat, la exploatarea de fier. Impreuna cu mama si cu sora lui, se intorc acasa, dupa o perioada petrecuta in Nouadhibou. Se tine de mine un timp si il apreciez pentru atitudinea lui deschisa si joviala, pentru oportunitatea de a discuta despre viata unui copil de miner in acest desert, cand deodata vad un nor trecand-i peste privire. Ezita, se opreste din mers, apoi porneste din nou nesigur. Ma uit la el curios, cred ca vrea sa-mi zica ceva si nu indrazneste, asa ca il provoc din priviri, si atunci ma loveste cu litania clasica: “Monsieur… Avez vous un cadeau ? … Un stilo ? Un bic ?” Baiatul care merge la scoala, dornic sa comunice si sa afle lucruri noi, s-a luptat o clipa cu el insusi si pana la urma a triumfat cersetorul invatat ca omul alb nu e un tovaras, ci o oportunitate. Cum a gandit oare Mokthar, in acele clipe cand a ezitat ? Poate, daca s-ar fi intors la mama lui ar fi fost intrebat “ti-a dat toubabul ceva ? Ai cerut ceva ?” si lui i-ar fi fost rusine sa spuna ca nu. Asa, calcandu-si pe inima, si-a facut datoria – asa cred ca simtea el, datoria de a incerca sa scoata ceva de la mine. Baiatul s-a indepartat incet de mine, cu datoria implinita, dar vizibil bulversat, poate de privirea mea dezamagita si dezaprobatoare, poate si de inselatoria pe care si-a tras-o lui insusi, spiritului liber si onest pe care l-am simtit la el.
Mokthar, la inceputul conversatiei noastre:
Ma intorc in gara. Ben si-a gasit si el un prieten. Un gambian inalt, sfrijit si murdar, cu o scurta albastra de fas si picioarele mari, goale, cu dintii rari, cei de sus puternic intorsi in fata, care il fac sa vorbeasca peltic, ne povesteste viata lui, bucuros ca poate vorbi in engleza. Gambia e o insula de limba engleza in marea regiune a Africii occidentale franceze. El a plecat de acasa spre nord, auzind de oportunitatile de lucru din Mauritania. A lucrat o perioada in Nouakchott, cu ziua, in constructii, dar concurenta era acerba, erau prea multi negri din sud si era greu pentru el sa faca fata. Asa ca a pornit mai departe spre nord, unde sunt mai putini imigranti si multe posibilitati – Nouadhibou e un port important, unde poti munci ca hamal, iar exploatarile de minereu de la Zouerat si F’derik au nevoie oricand de mana de lucru. Omul e de 5 ani in Mauritania si viseaza ca odata sa se poata imbarca pe un vas si sa plece mai departe spre nord, poate in Maroc, poate pana in Europa. Acum merge la Zouerat, isi ajuta patronul sa care o garnitura de mobila.
Trenul care urmeaza sa vina azi la 4, dupa cum spune lumea, are un vagon special pentru pasageri. Un loc in acel vagon costa 3000 OUG, cam 10 Euro. Nu avem de gand sa il luam, pentru ca am pornit sa facem drumul asta altfel, dar din spusele celor care au calatorit cu el am aflat ca vagonul e vechi si decrepit, nu are lumina electrica, geamurile mici si murdare nu se inchid bine asa incat frigul noptii, vantul si praful desertului razbat in voie inauntru. Dar tot e mult mai confortabil decat cuvele de metal in care vom calatori noi.
Garniturile de tren fac niste manevre, iar pe la 4 si jumatate una din ele defileaza prin fata noastra si se opreste, cu ultimele vagoane, inclusiv cel de pasageri, aproximativ in dreptul garii. Avem timp sa invatam de la altii cum se procedeaza, cum trebuie sa ne cataram in vagoanele ruginite. O scarita cu 3 trepte, care face corp comun cu masa vagonului, e agatata de buza lui, cam la 3.5 metri de pamant. Pentru a ajunge acolo, ne urcam pe tampoane, apoi pe striatiile vagoanelor, pentru a ajunge la scarita,apoi incalecam buza de metal si ne dam drumul inauntru. Pe dinauntru, vagonul e o cuva compacta, cu adancime de 1.5 metri, cu peretii tapetati de rugina si cu un strat de praf negru pe jos, ramas dupa descarcarea minereului. Ni se spune ca uneori, dupa bascularea minereului in port, vagoanele nu sunt fixate bine si se pot rasturna in mijlocul desertului, golindu-si incarcatura intamplatoare de oameni si bagaje. In aceste cazuri sunt sanse mici de scapare pentru nefericitii dinauntru.
Am hotarat sa imi las daraa-ul (haina traditionala maura) la adapost si sa ma protejez de praf cu o bluza cu gluga luata din NDB si cu turbanul, pe care incercarile mele de a mi-l infasura corect trezesc zambete compatimitoare pe fetele celor cu care impartim vagonul. Adama, un malian, ma invata procedura corecta. Suntem o adunatura de senegalezi, malieni, un gambian, un englez si un roman, si 2 mauri, “patronii”, care s-au tras la o parte intr-un colt, inconjurati de mobile. Unii merg la Choum si apoi Attar ca si noi, altii pana la Zouerat. Cu ochelarii de soare si turban, sunt complet protejat si gata de drum. De vreme ce nu am manusi, ma poti recunoaste usor, sunt cel cu mainile albe:
Dupa un timp de asteptare, sirena locomotivei suna dand semnalul si o zmucitura puternica aproape ne zmulge de pe picioare. Cand trenul se pune in miscare, impulsul de pornire trece din vagon in vagon, aproape 2 kilometri de la locomotive pana la noi, amplificandu-se ca o unda de soc si lovindu-ne cu puternic si cu zgomot. Privind spre locomotiva, vezi rand pe rand fiecare vagon tresarind si zmucindu-se inainte.
Plecam asadar. Pe marginea vagonului, privesc defiland periferiile orasului, cartierele Dubai si Bagdad, imense adunaturi de cocioabe facute din tabla de bidoane si folii de plastic, nisip, pietre, gunoi si copii marunti si negri pe jumatate dezbracati. Din toate colturile Africii de Vest s-au adunat oamenii in aceste cocioabe, sperand sa gaseasca o cale spre o viata mai buna, eventual o scapare spre mirajul Europei.
Nouadhibou ramane in urma si noi continuam de-a lungul peninsulei omonime, spre nord intr-o prima etapa, pana cand cotim ferm spre est, dupa ce depasim intersectia cu soseaua ce duce spre Nouakchott.
-Va urma-
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