(Rwanda, ianuarie 2010)
Thacien Kalinda avea 19 ani in 1994. In acele zile din Aprilie, Thacien avea o maceta in mana. De pe maceta picura sange. Sange de tutsi.
La scurt timp dupa ce Rwanda a pierdut aproape 1 milion de oameni in genocid, a mai pierdut aproape un milion de oameni, refugiati din calea noilor stapani ai situatiei, cei care au oprit macelul, armata tutsi a lui Kagame. Multi din cei care aveau legaturi cu militiile hutu si-au luat familiile si au fugit in Congo, declansand si acolo un razboi dezastruos si un macel prea putin documentat. Acolo, in provinciile estice ale DR Congo, razboiul continua inca, acum, in 2010.
In Aprilie, alegerile rwandezilor de rand erau putine. Fie luai maceta in mana, fie riscai sa ii simti taisul pe spinare. Au fost multi martiri, oameni care au ales sa se sacrifice impreuna cu familia sau prietenii care faceau parte din etnia condamnata. Dar Thacien a luat maceta in mana si a folosit-o. A ucis atunci.
Dupa genocid, s-a cerut dreptate. Ucigasii trebuiau pedepsiti, instigatorii trebuiau pedepsiti. La Arusha, in Tanzania, tribunalul international judeca pestii mari, metodic, cu dezbateri lungi, deliberari, martori… Pentru ceilalti, pentru zecile de criminali din fiecare sat al Rwandei, tribunalul de la Arusha e prea departe, prea lent, prea complicat. E un tribunal pentru domni, pentru intelectuali rasati care stiu sa isi justifice apelurile la crima cu citate din filozofi occidentali. Pentru restul, pentru cei simpli, nu merge. Dar tribunalele civile ale tarii nu pot face fata unui potential de sute de mii de procese, inchisorile nu vor putea tine niciodata o asemenea uriasa masa de condamnati. Cum judeci si condamni o jumatate din natiune, cum ? Pana in anul 2000, 120000 (da, 120 de MII) de oameni erau inchisi in sistemul de penitenciare nationale si comunale; doar o mica parte fusesera judecati si condamnati, si in libertate mai erau inca alte sute de mii de criminali probabili.
La zeci de ani dupa ce societatea rwandeza a ales calea modernitatii s-a apelat din nou la intelepciunea stramosilor. Au fost reinviate tribunalele populare, Gacaca (pronuntat ga-cha-cha), tribunale ale fiecarui sat, prezidate de batranii comunitatii. S-au depus plangeri, s-au chemat invinuitii si s-au chemat martorii. Vecini, prieteni, rude, oameni alaturi de care culegeai cartofii sau sapai porumbul, vin acum sa pledeze pentru a te acuza sau pentru a te sprijini, pentru ca atunci, in Aprilie, tu ai avut maceta in mana. Poate ai ucis. Unii te-au vazut…. Zeci de mii de suspecti au fost eliberati din sistemul de penitenciare de stat, care nu facea fata si nu avea puterea sa ii judece, au fost eliberati pentru a fi trimisi acasa si preluati de gacaca.
Tribunalele populare au menirea sa investigheze, sa stabileasca adevarul, in fata intregii comunitati. Reconcilierea e dezideratul principal, dar cei dovediti criminali vor fi trimisi mai departe sistemului de stat, unde vor executa pedepse cu inchisoare si munca in folosul comunitatii. Daca mergi cu autobuzul in Rwanda, e imposibil sa nu intalnesti coloane de barbati imbracati in salopete roz, cu harlete si tarnacoape, marsaluind spre locatiile unde vor munci.
Thacien a fost acuzat de crima si anchetat. Nu s-au putut aduce dovezi concludente impotriva lui, asa ca a fost achitat. Ani de zile, Thacien s-a luptat cu demonul. Era un ucigas, un criminal care a furat atunci o viata. Pana cand, intr-o zi, Thacien i-a marturisit Xaverinei ca i-a ucis fiul.
Xaverina Niragire si-a pierdut sotul si trei copii in genocid. Dupa asta, viata ei era lipsita de sens. A incercat sa se sinucida, aruncandu-se intr-un lac si cerandu-i divinitatii sa o izbaveasca de viata, dar Dumnezeu a vrut sa o lasa sa traiasca in continuare, sa se chiunuie cu durerea si amintirile. Pana cand, intr-o zi, Thacien a venit si i-a marturisit ca i-a ucis fiul. Thacien i-a cerut iertare.
Si Xaverina l-a iertat. Thacien si Xaverina sunt acum o familie, el e fiul ei pierdut, iar ea e o mama ocrotitoare si iubitoare.
Thacien face poze pentru proiectul Visions of Rwanda, din cadrul programului ONU pentru prevenirea genocidului. Face poze copiilor din sat, Xaverinei, lacului unde Xaverina a incercat sa se inece. Si Xaverina ii face poze lui, lui Thacien. Si zambeste, din nou.
Thacien isi asteapta randul la judecata. A declarat o crima, deci va fi condamnat si inchis.
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Cu cateva saptamani inainte sa aflu aceasta poveste pe pamant rwandez, congolezul Sosthene imi povestea despre spiritul african, la unul dintre popasurile pe care le-am facut in Katanga. Lui Sosthene ii place sa vorbeasca in pilde si asta il prinde foarte natural, desi nu e batran si pana il cunosti mai bine pare un tip timid, rigid, naiv si nu foarte ager. Asta pana iti spune povestile, povesti cu talc din viata lui, din viata altora, si te lasa sa tragi concluzia, privind discret in alta parte in timp ce tu rumegi bulversat.
Intr-una din povesti, care se intampla “cred ca in Burundi, dar putea fi oriunde in tarile din zona”, un politist a avut o altercatie cu un grup de tineri beti. La manie, a scos pistolul, baietii au fugit si el a tras. Unul din ei a cazut secerat, mort pe loc. Politistul a inteles gravitatea faptei sale. La auzul impuscaturii, oamenii ieseau din casa, tovarasii victimei il aratau deja pe criminal, asa ca omul a fugit, cu ceata de cetateni razbunatori dupa el, in frunte cu tovarasii victimei. Incercand sa se ascunda pe stradutele orasului, a dat buzna intr-o coliba darapanata, unde a gasit o femeie batrana.
“Am ucis un om. Acum, tovarasii lui vin sa ma omoare. Fii buna, lasa-ma sa ma ascund in casa ta, sunt vinovat, dar nu vreau sa mor asa…”
Femeia a fost de acord. Ceata de urmaritori a ajuns, cautand din casa in casa, au ajuns si la usa colibei. Batrana a iesit in prag.
“Ce sa caute un ucigas in casa mea darapanata ? Am vazut un om in uniforma fugind pe-acolo, pe ulita din stanga…”
Nu dupa mult timp, cat politistul inca era ascuns in casa, un alt grup s-a oprit in fata colibei si i-a cerut batranei sa iasa. Au depus in fata usii un cadavru insangerat.
“Femeie, acesta e baiatul tau. Ucis de un politist cu putin timp in urma. Acum, noi il cautam pe criminal. Iti promitem ca iti vom razbuna baiatul”.
Femeia si-a plans copilul indelung. Apoi, la lasarea serii, a venit in fata ucigasului, care auzise tot, si i-a spus doar un cuvant: “Pleaca !”
Criminalul a fugit, s-a ascuns in paduri, prin munti, luni de zile. Si dupa un timp, intr-o seara… stiti, asa-i ?… a batut la usa batranei.
“Femeie, ma cunosti, eu sunt ucigasul copilului tau. Ti-am ucis fiinta cea mai draga in lume, ti-am ucis scopul vietii si sprijinul la batranete. Acum sunt eu, in fata ta, iti cer iertare si-ti cer sa ma lasi sa incerc sa fiu eu pentru tine ceea ce ti-am rapit, sa fiu eu fiul tau de acum”.
Din nou, stiti ce s-a intamplat, asa-i ? Batrana l-a imbratisat si l-a primit in casa, ca fiu al ei.
Daca tu erai Thacien, sau politistul, ce ai fi facut ? Ai fi marturisit, asa-i ?
Daca tu erai Xaverina, ce ai fi facut cand Thacien a venit sa iti ceara iertare ? L-ai fi imbratisat, asa-i ? Nu te cred…
Un turist alb, afland povestea lui Thacien si Xaverina la memorialul genocidului din Kigali, mi-a declarat ca “Nu, n-as putea face asta, n-as putea ierta asa ceva ! Niciodata !” Tu poti ?
In “inima intunericului”, acolo unde salbaticia e la ea acasa, cea naturala dar mai ales cea umana, acolo unde au avut loc maceluri ingrozitoare, unde jungla inca rasuna de tiruri de pusca automata si sate inca sunt rase de rebeli inarmati, acolo oamenii vorbesc despre ce inseamna sa fi om. Si nu doar vorbesc in pilde, ci ti le si arata.
Rwanda astazi pare o tara prospera. Toate dealurile, “mille collines” ale ei sunt cultivate de sus pana jos, ingrijit terasate, fiecare sat si orasel e o gradina in miniatura, cu alei cu flori ingrijite, garduri verzi frumos tunse. Orasele curate, asfaltate, cu spatii verzi, cu copaci infloriti. Kigali, intins pe multe coline, oras relaxat, cu oameni blanzi, cu cladiri de birouri inalte moderne in constructie in centru. O tara care aspira spre modernitate si prosperitate si e pe drumul cel bun.
Dar, ca sa ti se aduca aminte ca ceea ce vezi nu e tot, sunt Memorialele, monumente pentru aducere aminte, morminte comune ale sutelor de mii de oameni ucisi, cranii la vedere, vestminte insangerate, trupuri mumifiate, pete de sange uscat pe pereti si mai ales povesti, multe povesti cutremuratoare.
Intr-o tara in care toti sunt victime sau calai sau sunt prea mici ca sa fi putut alege, cum poti construi viitorul ? Umpland puscariile, gonind jumatate din populatie afara din tara, cerand razbunare, aplicand pedepse dure ?
Din abisul constiintei umane, impulsul ucigas, setea de sange care a cuprins ca o frenezie atatia oameni, uciderea cu voluptate, violurile, Raul suprem, punand, ca un tsunami, stapanire pe o natiune, trebuie ostoit acum, contracarat, vindecat. Durerea cea mai cumplita, pierderea copiilor, a sotului, violul la care ai fost supusa si in urma caruia ai contractat HIV, peste toate trebuie sa treci sa mergi mai departe. Rwanda si fiecare om al ei invata sa umble din nou si primii pasi sunt durerosi.
Abisuri si culmi ale umanitatii, aici se gasesc, pe pamantul asta mustind de sange….
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