(Ianuarie 2009)
Nepalul e pe cale sa devina cel mai mare producator de ginger din lume. Pe suprafete intinse din Terai taranii cultiva ginger, pe care apoi comerciantii autorizati de guvern il exporta, tot, spre India. Pe mai nimic. Dar increderea nepalezilor creste, sunt si ei o natiune exportatoare, dupa mult timp in care au importat din India pana si orezul zilnic, pentru ca populatia Nepalului s-a dublat in ultimii 30 de ani si campiile Teraiului nu dau destul cand sunt cultivate in mod primitiv de sateni care inca traiesc intr-o societate feudala, cu mosieri si serbi, cu caste si pana de curand cu lorzi militari maoisti, transformati acum in functionari guvernamentali, dar pastrandu-si feudele si obiceiurile.
Nepalul exporta ginger in India si importa orez. Iese in pierdere din afacerea asta si probabil pentru sateni ar fi mai bine sa cultive ceea ce consuma, in loc sa vanda ieftin si sa cumpere scump de la intermediarii care mituiesc autoritatile pentru a fi autorizati. Dar mandria merita – Nepal poate fi primul in ceva, in afara de inaltimea muntilor. Nepal poate concura in a fi cel mai mare producator de ceva, in afara de saracie, analfabetism si degringolada politica.
16 ore din 24 nepalezii nu au curent electric. Desigur, problema ii afecteaza doar pe o treime dintre cetatenii nepalezi, adica cei care sunt racordati la reteaua electrica. Ca sa justifice situatia, guvernul da vina pe doua lucruri: pe popor, deoarece consuma (cerinta de consum a crescut cu 20% in anul asta fata de anul trecut, zic statisticile) si pe natura, pentru ca anul asta zapezile din munti nu vor sa se topeasca si apele nu curg la vale ca sa antreneze turbinele hidrocentralelor.
De fapt mai este si al treilea vinovat, vinovat de altfel pentru toate problemele din tara asta – regimul trecut, care nu a fost in stare sa construiasca facilitati energetice noi si a fost preocupat doar sa exploateze poporul.
Oamenii au alta opinie, cica problema e si mai complexa. Guvernul maoist sustine cu tarie ca cei mai buni prieteni ai Nepalului trebuie sa fie indienii. Pur si simplu pentru ca nu are incotro, de vreme ce singura alternativa, celalalt vecin, China, nu poate fi prieten cu o tara care da refugiu unei mari multimi de tibetani revendicativi (nu exista alt tip de tibetan). Chiar daca istoric India nu a fost bun prieten cu Nepalul, nici macar in istoria recenta. Oamenii spun ca sistemul de hidrocentrale a fost concesionat unor companii indiene, care cu nerusinare exporta energia spre India de nord. Oamenii mai spun ca desi guvernul precedent nu a fost capabil sa extinda corespunzator reteaua energetica, insurgentii maoisti si-au facut un titlu de glorie din sabotarea hidrocentralelor, desigur pe vremea cand nu erau inca la putere. Oamenii mai spun ca tot ce spune guvernul sunt vorbe goale si ca nu se asteapta la nimic bun.
Guvernul, democratic si reprezentativ, incearca sa gaseasca mijloace pentru a accelera progresul. Prin ordonante guvernamentale care nu mai trec prin aprobarea parlamentului. Cum e de exemplu cea a „sansei la reprezentare in aparatul de stat”, care sustine ca entitatile sociale pana acum defavorizate trebuie pe viitor sa fie reprezentate la toate nivelele aparatului de stat. Adica femeile, castele de jos (dalitii, the untouchables), minoritatile tribale. Toti cersetorii si analfabetii, care nu au avut nimic si s-au uitat sute de ani cu ura la cei puternici dar si unii la altii , toti dezmostenitii trebuie sa fie reprezentati in functii de conducere si sa conduca destinele natiunii.
Intr-o tara in care doua treimi din populatie traieste in conditii de crasa mizerie iar cei care au de lucru sunt fericiti daca aduna un dolar pe zi, in care vaste regiuni nu au electricitate si un mare procent din populatie nu stie sa scrie si sa citeasca , intr-o tara in care educatia e la pamant, atat cat e, 45% din autoritate va fi data celor care nu au nimic si nu stiu decat sa dea cu sapa, celor care abia auzind vestea promulgarii ordonantei isi fac planuri de distrugere a „celorlalti”, fie ei daliti, „feudali”, tharu, maoisti…
Nepalezii s-au saturat sa mai acuze si sa ceara schimbare. Au facut asta prea multi ani. Acum, daca ii intrebi ce parere au despre viitorul tarii, se fac ca nu aud intrebarea sau pleaca ochii in pamant. Si se roaga la zeii lor cei multi, se roaga mult, cum au facut intotdeauna.
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Vezi mai jos niste poze facute pe strada in Kathmandu, facute aiurea si fara calitate, asa cum aiurea si fara calitate este si viata celor din imagini.
Imaginile sunt surprinse in Ianuarie 2009
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